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Ahah trust me I fall a LOT!
Tonight the surf was really really rough and big. As i headed in i tried to keep an open mind in hopes of finding a calmer part. The bit i first went in to however started dragging me towards the rocks so i had to try and escape from the rocks and then the lifeguards told me to move into/on the outskirts of the flags as everyone was on the left and they were able to keep a better eye on me and a couple other surfers. At this point I had caught maybe 1 or 2 waves so did what the lifeguards said and moved over.
At this point i started losing a little bit of motivation as i was still just being thrown about by the waves. I however decided to keep going and attempted to catch a few more wave, a couple of which for some reason i felt really weak and wasn't able to get up, some which ended up in a nose dive and being completely flipped and some which i actually managed to stand on and stay on.
The conditions however began to get bigger and the waves were just towering over me. A couple of them threw me backwards, some pushing me under to a point where i couldn't get back up and some which actually left me with a couple minor scrapes/bruises.
By now I was just frustrated, tired and had completely lost motivation so decided i was going to catch one more wave to end on a positive note and then head back up to my dad. My shoulder had been slightly injured due to impact on hitting the floor from a wave but I managed to catch a nice wave to end on and then got out. I felt pretty defeated in all honesty but even other surfers were struggling and called it quits so I knew I had tried my hardest as well as reminding myself not every surf will be a good surf and that's okay.
My confidence was definitely all over the place as I had been trying to re-build it from a different experience but i'm not gonna let this surf affect my whole opinion/experience in future surfs.
Today wasnt my day but its okay! I got back on the board and left it on a positive note as sometimes thats all you can do.
It sounds like yesterday's session was tough but you stuck it out even when things got a bit rough. The fact that you kept going, even after getting knocked around, shows a lot of determination!! It would’ve been easy to call it a day but you kept at it and that’s fab.
Not every session is going to be great, and like you say, that's totally fine. What matters is that you didn’t let the rough conditions knock your whole experience of surfing. You caught that last wave and finished on a high note, which is a big win!
It sounds like you're learning a lot and getting better every time you get out there. You're doing so well and I'm really enjoying hearing about your experiences - it makes me want to try surfing!
You so should give it a goooo! I know @ella did hehehe, you could make it a team building trip or something
Because of this I want to remind you all that you are all amazing and are doing so so well to get through every day. I see how hard you are pushing and I am so proud of you. I love you all and you've all got this. This is including the mods (and the staff) at the mix as the mix wouldn't be here without you all. You are all amazing and I appreciate you alot.
This has set me back even more than before however I'm trying to not let it Completely destroy my spirits. I will need to start from the beginning however so for now I think I will try to stick to weekends and when there's lifeguards. I would love to just quite but I know that's the last thing I should do. I just hope to come back from this scary but eye opening experience
Today I decided that despite honestly being petrified I was going to go into the sea. The sea was basically flat with the odd tiny wave and although the other day left me wondering if id even go in again, I managed to go in fully. It took me a while to dunk my head because of being dragged under, but slowly i reached the point where I was able. Im unsure if Ill go in on my board anytime soon however im trying to celebrate the little achievements as they come.
Pics from my surf last night 💕🌊💕🌊
Once again, amazing surf, so freeing
I got dragged across the beach and I think it's one of the scariest things that's happened ever; a massive wave flipped me and waves taller than me kept coming and I kept being flipped and I was right next to the massive rocks and everytime I got up I was knocked over and I was so fucking scared, I just kept getting rolled.
Got dragged across the floor (pebble beach) and I was completely petrified
That could've ended so so bad if one more wave came.
I'm still so shaky, my legs and feet are sore and feel scuffed from the rocks, my neck kills from being rolled and I honestly don't know I'd I've ever been through anything scarier