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buying a car from ebay...
Former Member
Posts: 1,876,323 The Mix Honorary Guru
so anyway, i've just won a bid on a car on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2005-55-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-SE-AUTO-damaged-repairable_W0QQitemZ120253020767QQihZ002QQcategoryZ9873QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I'm planning to drive down to southampton to collect it either this weekend or next weekend,
any tips on what I should make sure about before I hand over the cash?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2005-55-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-SE-AUTO-damaged-repairable_W0QQitemZ120253020767QQihZ002QQcategoryZ9873QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I'm planning to drive down to southampton to collect it either this weekend or next weekend,
any tips on what I should make sure about before I hand over the cash?
0
Comments
Common pitfall is rust, it might be hard to spot, but try to look for obvious rustspots.
Lol,
just joking.
Make sure there's no damage in excess of what they have stated.
If they are claiming it drives right - test it (make sure you have the insurance cover)
You do know you have to get approval for a Cat D car to be put back on the road (i think it's D, it might be C - so don't quote me on this) and sometimes insurance companies don't like re-insuring them?
Are you repairing it yourself?
I'll repair the front grille myself, and get a chap i know to do the bodywork at the rear.
The seller has told me that I can just get it tax'd and drive it away, says he has the v5 docs and logbook, so i would assume that he already had approval to have it back on the road?
Tends to suggest they've written it off.....
http://www.aacheck.com/write-off-categories.html
"Vehicles categorised as A, B or C require a VIC test before the DVLA will issue a new registration document. This will then be noted on the V5C. See www.dvla.gov.uk for more information on VIC testing."
Why did the insurance pay out £10K instead of just paying the seemingly small sums to get it repaired? Keep your wits about you for anything fishy...
The vehicle will always be worth ~20% less than one that hasn't been involved in an accident. On top of that, they've got to source brand-new parts - headlamp lugs might be broken, bonnet may have minor damage, grill and bumper would be replaced, rear bumper, tailgate, seatbelt pre-tensioner and whatever else needs doing - sourcing these parts brand new would cost a pretty penny - budget on a grand. Then there's the labour of fitting them and getting them painted to match the rest of the car...
So, we have an option here - if the owner isn't fussed about keeping the car(it's not a rare example, and it's done 25k), then the £10k payout for the car less the £4k they'll have seen for it at salvage is leaving a difference of £6k. Retail prices for all the parts would be £1k+, with a similar amount for fitting and painting.
So, as it stands, they'd be looking at a difference of £3k or thereabouts. Given the number of times a vehicle can be refused by the owner, because the work hasn't been done to their standard - that £3k just gets smaller and smaller.
Often makes more sense for them to just pay out for the vehicle, and move it on. Each time the car isn't right, there's more paperwork, more need for employees, and a diminishing saving.
For the man down the road, the front will mend easy and largely polish out. The tailgate won't, and will need replacing - but that, and the seatbelt pre-tensioner should be it on the face of things. Bumpers will respray okay(personally, I'd leave it be - they'll have some more marks in 2/3 years time, I'd do it then just before selling).
Using non-franchised labour and second-hand parts, it'll come in at £700 or less. Original owner is happy, having £10k in her pocket. Insurance company is happy, having not had to worry about doing any work(the financial loss just goes on your premium, and mine, next year), new owner has got themselves a cheap car, and Bob in the local garage gets a few hours work.
Only person to lose out is everyone else who buys insurance, and they're faceless in this transaction.
As for the car, check the radiator hasn't been damaged, nor any metalwork in the surrounding area(front impact). Look at the boot floor for ripples or any sign of stress, particularly around the catch area.
MyCarCheck.com is the cheapest place to get a check done for finance and whatnot. £3 I think, last time I used it. Worth checking it is a cat D, because you'll have more work to do if it's a C.
Go on, tell him/her which bits they'll need to fix before using it on the road... There is only one part which is making it unroadworthy as it stands...
the seat belt needs to be fix to make it safe for the roads, the lights should be ok, just depends how badly damaged they are, if they are lose then they will need to be replaced before driving.
I wont be fixing the seat belt straight away, I'm not taking a passenger with me, but i will do it asap.
Just a quick question, I'm trying to arrange to tax the car, and the guy's saying that he can't tax it for me because he deals with salvage, and he's saying that when I come down I go to the post office and tax it with him..
Surely this is not possible? For a start I wont have had the insurance paperwork through in time, and also the car wont be registered under my name so the post office won't allow me to do it?
the fact its not in your name doesnt matter, i do my mums tax each year, but without the insurance paper work you wont be able to tax the car.